So I was finally able to play with my Hakko FR-301 desoldering tool.

Overall, it was a breeze to use and I'll be using this for many future projects (like the replacement of my Tandy 1400LT battery) soon.

The solder "tip" has a hole in it. You put the tip on the solder point so that the leg is inside the hole. You also want the tip slightly offset so that it's heating the leg - not the pad as much.

I usually move the tip to the side a bit to tell me if the solder has melted, then I press the vacuum button and I now have a clean solder point.

Of course, it's not magically perfect.
Sometimes you need to add some extra solder to get a good seal on the vacuum. And it doesn't suck the solder all the way to the other side of the board. So the chips do need a bit of coaxing to get off because of the residual solder on the other side of the hole.

But I was able to desolder 3 chips (2 memory chips and a 80C85 CPU) in a very short time with no damage to the board or the chips.


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Re: Hakko FR-301
By: Dr. What to All on Mon May 11 2020 09:52 am

So I was finally able to play with my Hakko FR-301 desoldering tool.

Overall, it was a breeze to use and I'll be using this for many future proje (like the replacement of my Tandy 1400LT battery) soon.

The solder "tip" has a hole in it. You put the tip on the solder point so th the leg is inside the hole. You also want the tip slightly offset so that i heating the leg - not the pad as much.

I usually move the tip to the side a bit to tell me if the solder has melted then I press the vacuum button and I now have a clean solder point.

Of course, it's not magically perfect.
Sometimes you need to add some extra solder to get a good seal on the vacuum And it doesn't suck the solder all the way to the other side of the board. the chips do need a bit of coaxing to get off because of the residual solder the other side of the hole.

But I was able to desolder 3 chips (2 memory chips and a 80C85 CPU) in a ver short time with no damage to the board or the chips.

... Me, indecisive? I don't think I am, do you?

Working with a bulb or a spring loaded sucker functions the same way, except you need a free had to do it. Having to touch up solder to make it flow is common. When I worked at ZDS I used to have a nice Weller station

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Re: Hakko FR-301
By: Moondog to Dr. What on Mon May 11 2020 08:31 pm

Re: Hakko FR-301
By: Dr. What to All on Mon May 11 2020 09:52 am

So I was finally able to play with my Hakko FR-301 desoldering tool.

Overall, it was a breeze to use and I'll be using this for many future pr (like the replacement of my Tandy 1400LT battery) soon.

The solder "tip" has a hole in it. You put the tip on the solder point so the leg is inside the hole. You also want the tip slightly offset so tha heating the leg - not the pad as much.

I usually move the tip to the side a bit to tell me if the solder has mel then I press the vacuum button and I now have a clean solder point.

Of course, it's not magically perfect.
Sometimes you need to add some extra solder to get a good seal on the vac And it doesn't suck the solder all the way to the other side of the board the chips do need a bit of coaxing to get off because of the residual sol the other side of the hole.

But I was able to desolder 3 chips (2 memory chips and a 80C85 CPU) in a short time with no damage to the board or the chips.

those vaccum desoldering tools can be tricky. i prefer the manual tools over those things. you can rip pads off boards.
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MRO wrote to Moondog <=-

those vaccum desoldering tools can be tricky. i prefer the manual tools over those things. you can rip pads off boards.

They do clearly state in their manual that you should be heating the wire - not the pad - and that you need to be careful to not damage the pad.

For my testing, I used some old, certainly not working boards. I didn't have any trouble desoldering things while keeping the pads intact.

I did have one mistake, but that wasn't in the desoldering process. It was in the removal process. The desoldering tool cannot remove ALL the solder, so there is a little left holding the component in. Care is needed to make sure that when you remove the component you don't pull the pad off because of the residual solder.

Lesson learned: I still need to have a soldering iron near by to heat up the area a bit to remove the component. But the desoldering tool make removing that component 100 times easier than with manual only tools.


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Re: Re: Hakko FR-301
By: Dr. What to MRO on Tue May 19 2020 10:19 am

Lesson learned: I still need to have a soldering iron near by to heat up the area a bit to remove the component. But the desoldering tool make removing that component 100 times easier than with manual only tools.

i'm old school. i prefer manual. my coworkers are crying for a 'solder sucker' but me and the boss are very against them. those pads are just on with a bit of glue.

when you do the tool, you go over the lead and go down and do a little
wiggle. then you go up and suck. atleast that's how i was shown. i only ripped off one pad and it was because of the issue you mentioned where i didnt get all the solder off and i ripped it off.

i still like the old school desoldering methods. i feel like i have a lot more control.
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05-20-20 20:40 MRO wrote to Dr. What about Re: Hakko FR-301
Howdy! MRO and Dr. What,

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Re: Re: Hakko FR-301
By: Dr. What to MRO on Tue May 19 2020 10:19 am

Lesson learned: I still need to have a soldering iron near by to heat up the area a bit to remove the component. But the desoldering tool make removing that component 100 times easier than with manual only tools.

i'm old school. i prefer manual. my coworkers are crying for a 'solder sucker' but me and the boss are very against them. those pads are just
on with a bit of glue.

In the 1980's until 1996, I bought "Bishop Graphics" Pads, Straight Line
and I.C. Connector parts made of Copper.

Those parts have an adhesive layer on one side to hold them on the PC Board.

I have also used Bishop Graphics parts to make new projects by sticking them
on a Perf Board, inserting the components through a Pad and soldering them.

One project I made didn't work, so I called a friend who was a Technician and He told me to use a VOM to see if I forgot to solder one of the Traces to a Pad.

I found several places that I forgot to put a dab of solder on and soldered
the connections and got my project to work.

I haven't done much Soldering since the Mid-90's, but believe I still have
some Bishop Grapics stuff in the workshop, I don't know if places like
Digi-Key still has them in stock, I bought mine at a local Electronics Wholesale Parts Store.

If I still have some of that stuff, I could mail some to You if You can't
buy it anywhere.

when you do the tool, you go over the lead and go down and do a little wiggle. then you go up and suck. atleast that's how i was shown. i
only ripped off one pad and it was because of the issue you mentioned where i didnt get all the solder off and i ripped it off.

i still like the old school desoldering methods. i feel like i have a
lot more control.

I had both a Large Solder Sucker and one that was very Small I used when I wanted to replace a part on a Circuit Board or Terminal Strip or Tube Socket.

I thought they and Cordless Soldering Irons were the best thing since
Scrambled Eggs.
But that's just what "I" think.

73 de Ed W9ODR . .


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